Help Centre

We are a supply-only company. We do not fit or template worktops ourselves. However, we have a network of recommended fitters and carpenters across the UK.

If you share your postcode, we can check who we have in your area and pass their details on to you.

For compact laminate, here is the joining process:

First, you use a butt joint with connector bolts. You butt the worktops together, route a pocket for the bolts on the underside, and then use the bolts to squeeze the worktops together.

Second, to get them perfectly flush and level, you use biscuit joints or cookie dowels. These create a mechanical connection that aligns the two pieces precisely on the surface.

For sealing, always use colour-matched silicone, not standard colourfill. The colour-matched silicone makes the seam virtually invisible, keeps it waterproof, and matches your worktop pattern.

For wooden worktops, the process is very similar: butt joint, wooden biscuits or cookie dowels for alignment, and an appropriate wood glue or silicone for sealing.

For chipboard laminate, a Mason's Mitre (or Hockey Stick) joint is used instead of a butt joint. This requires a jig and a router, and sealing with ColorFill is essential to prevent water getting into the core.

We can supply colour-matched silicone alongside your order to make sure you have the right match.

Compact laminate is installed the same way as stone or quartz. You silicone or glue it directly onto the top rails of your cabinet carcasses.

Run a bead of high-quality kitchen silicone along the top rail of every cabinet the worktop will sit on, lower the worktop into position, press it down firmly, and let it cure. Once the silicone sets, the bond is permanent and very strong. No screws, no brackets, no clips needed.

One tip: use a non-setting or slow-set silicone on your first pass so you have time to adjust the position before it cures.

Direct screws through compact laminate are not recommended. The material does not hold a standard screw well because of its density.

The correct method for fixing to cabinets is silicone or adhesive. A bead of high-quality kitchen silicone on the top rail of each cabinet creates a permanent and very secure bond.

If your carpenter specifically needs a mechanical fixing, for example for attaching an undermount sink, there is a solution: brass threaded inserts. These are pressed into the compact laminate and then a threaded bolt goes into the insert. This creates a proper mechanical connection identical in strength to a screw into solid material.

Compact laminate is much harder and denser than it looks, so the right tools matter.

For straight cuts: a plunge saw with a guide rail, using a sharp TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) triple chip blade or a PCD (Polycrystalline Diamond) blade.

For sink cutouts: a router with a TCT straight cutter.

For finishing edges: 240-grit sandpaper to sand the edges, then bevel the edges with a 22.5 or 45 degree chamfer using a router, and finally a drop of linseed or mineral oil to make the core colour pop.

The number one cutting mistake is trying to cut in a single pass. The material is dense so it generates heat which blunts blades and chips the surface. The correct method is to cut in increments of 2 to 3mm at a time, working down through the 12mm thickness in multiple passes. Sharp blades plus incremental cuts equals a perfect result.

We have a full step-by-step cutting video on YouTube if your carpenter wants to watch it before starting.

For bespoke orders with sink cutouts, we never cut until you have approved the CAD drawing. You place your order first, then we contact you to confirm all the cutout dimensions before anything is made.

The only thing we need from you is your sink manufacturer's cutout sizes, which should come with the sink or be available on the manufacturer's website.

For compact laminate, our minimum edge distance is 100mm from the front edge of the worktop to the start of the cutout. This protects the structural integrity of the overhang.

We have a full guide on measuring sink and hob cutout positions here: houseofworktops.co.uk/blog/how-to-measure-the-location-of-a-sink-or-hob-cutout-on-a-kitchen-worktop/

Yes. Belfast sinks are typically fitted as overmount sinks, meaning the sink sits on top of the worktop and the rim rests on the surface, sealed with silicone. This works perfectly with compact laminate.

If you want a cleaner, more modern look with the sink recessed below the worktop surface (undermount style with a Belfast), that is also possible with compact laminate because of the solid waterproof core.

When you order, tell us your sink model and dimensions and we will make sure the cutout is correct for it.

Every worktop needs measuring on site to make sure it fits your kitchen correctly. We do not offer templating or measuring ourselves, but you can measure at home or hire a local fitter to do it.

If you do not have anyone to help and you do not want to do it yourself, share your postcode with us and we will check if we have any trusted fitters in your area.

We cut your worktops based on the measurements you provide. We do not offer templating or measuring on-site ourselves.

For bespoke orders with cutouts, we make it safer: once you place your order, we create a detailed CAD drawing based on your dimensions and send it to you for approval before we make a single cut. That approval step protects you.

If you are not confident measuring yourself, we can recommend trusted fitters in your area who can measure and install. Just share your postcode with us.